This week I would like to take a more serious look at the state of the South African wine industry, which continues to face significant challenges. While the broader economy is far from thriving, the wine sector has endured yet another contraction, with sales falling by 6.2% following a previous decline of 7% in 2024. This marks a troubling trend of almost consistent contraction since 2022, despite the brief post-COVID bounce back that initially gave the industry hope.
That bounce back, however, was largely driven by a recovery in local sales rather than exports. International demand has not returned to where they once were and given the trends observed even before the current geopolitical uncertainties, it seems unlikely that exports will recover in the near future. This reality underscores the importance of understanding and nurturing the domestic market, which has often been overlooked or undervalued by the industry.
These local consumers, particularly in regions such as Gauteng, represent a critical opportunity for the industry’s survival. Yet, the truth is that we do not fully understand what they want. There is a prevailing assumption that these consumers prefer cheap, sweet wines, and salespeople often reinforce this stereotype by claiming that Gauteng drinkers will consume any inexpensive sweet wine offered to them. However talking to a wine educator that works in Gauteng it is not that consumers there will blindly drink anything, but rather that they are open to exploring wine in all its forms in his opinion. They do not carry the same preconceived notions about what is ‘proper’ or the correct way to enjoy wine. For them, the only criterion that matters are whether the wine tastes good and they do not shy away from adding sprite or coca cola to make some plonk more palatable.
This openness presents a unique opportunity. Just a few months ago, I talked about research done by Dr Jeanne Brand that highlighted the diverse taste profiles across South African consumers. For example, individuals from Xhosa and Zulu backgrounds demonstrated a deeper perception and vocabulary for herbaceous and vegetative notes than their western cape counterparts.
Taste preferences are shaped by exposure and cultural context. Western Europeans, for instance, have a higher tolerance for lactic and strong dairy-like flavours due to their long cultural association with cheese and dairy products. In contrast, East Asian consumers are often more sensitive to such flavours but are less put off by strong oceanic or fish notes. Similarly, my experience with Eastern European consumers, much like some South African groups, are a preference for herbaceous flavours, which is evident in both their cuisine and their wine.
One particularly interesting observation is the prevalence of Cabernet Sauvignon used in rosé production in certain regions in central and eastern Europe.
In South Africa, this would be considered unwise, as the industry prioritizes fruity character in rosés. The strong green methoxypyrazine flavours that can develop in Cabernet rosés are typically seen as undesirable here. Our consumers are assumed to want fruity and sweet wines. But is that truly their preference, or are they simply consuming what the industry provides them?
This question cuts to the heart of the issue: Does the South African wine industry really have a comprehensive understanding of its local consumer base?
How often do we not measure success in the wine industry by the number of countries to which a brand exports. Winemakers spend months abroad trying to secure international sales, yet few dedicate the same effort to engaging with domestic markets such as Johannesburg, Durban, East London, or Bloemfontein. You will often hear of winemakers in the off season doing a two-month sales tour in Europe or America, but almost never of anyone spending more than a few days a year covering Gauteng. We cannot keep relying on these local consumers to buoy the industry when times get tough when we continue to view them as secondary consumers in a lesser market. This disconnect is not only short-sighted but potentially dangerous for the future of the industry.
In today’s global wine landscape, a strong local consumer base is no longer optional, it is essential. The industry must invest in understanding the diverse preferences of South African wine drinkers, moving beyond stereotypes and assumptions. It must recognize that local consumers are not a fallback option but a vital foundation for resilience and growth. Establishing this foundation demands research, active participation, adaptability to changing preferences, and genuinely asking people what they want instead of imposing our assumptions on them.
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