The west coast is the best coast, ask any one from this area and this is the answer you will get. This windswept coastline known for its crayfish and people as tough as the beloved bokkoms that sway in the wind of any good corner shop worth its salt on it shores.
A decade ago, if someone spoke of premium wine, the West Coast would hardly have been the first place to come to mind. Its fertile riverbank soils were traditionally viewed as ideal for high-yield grape production rather than boutique winemaking. As one seasoned West Coast resident once told me, “We make the wine for them and the brandy for us.” However, hindsight reveals a different story, perhaps deliberately keeping the best selections just beyond the reach of those “inkommers” such as myself.
The West Coast’s journey into commercial wine production began with the completion of the Bulshoek Dam in 1924. Before the building of irrigation scheme the area mostly consisted of subsistence farmers with the total recorded income of the whole upper olifantsriver valley being recorded as £1400 in 1860. This milestone of engineering allowed the region to harness the power of the Olifants River, initiating South Africa’s oldest irrigation scheme.
For many years, the area was recognized as a cornerstone of bulk wine production, largely due to the success of this irrigation system. Although one of the youngest wine regions in South Africa, this area is the third largest provider of grapes, producing over 150,000 tons, despite being only the sixth largest in size. And home to one of the juggernauts in the wine industry in Namaqua wines in the area.
However, whispers of premium West Coast wines started emerging in the late 2000s, particularly from Darling. Conversations around the distinct green character of Sauvignon Blanc from the Groenekloof area sparked intrigue, and as interest grew, winemakers flocked to this new frontier, eager to secure a share of what was soon regarded as the region’s “green gold.”
But soon they realized that there was a very small supply of these grapes available and so those looking for grapes cast their eyes north.
Further up the coast, in the Lutzville area, a handful of intrepid locals were already quietly refining their craft, fiercely protecting the hidden gems they had uncovered along the banks of the Olifants River. They had long understood the true potential of the region to produce premium wines.
At the local watering holes, after just a few glasses of wine, any mention of the area’s wine of origin designation would spark heated debates. How could they not be classified as a coastal region when the vineyards offered views of the sea and the salt-laden air was unmistakable, while inland areas like Wellington had received this privilege?
Pioneers such as Jan Ponk from Fryers Cove, Joan Wiggings from Seale Breeze, Anton Russouw from Rossolo ( being the first private cellar in 2001 in the area) and Johan Theubes from Theubes Family Wines were among the first to tap into this rich vein of premium fruit. Their years of unwavering dedication paid off, as the Lutzville and Koekenhaap areas were eventually granted official Coastal Region designation after a hard-fought campaign. Today the coastal region boundary is marked by the old railway bridge that carries iron ore from deep in the interior to the Saldana bay harbour.
The growth of this area’s premium wines is evident in the increase in Sauvignon Blanc plantings, which have risen from 577 hectares in 2009 to 750 hectares in 2024. Currently, grape prices for these grapes are comparable to those of the mighty Stellenbosch.
The evolution of cultivars and fluctuations in grape prices are only part of the transformation taking place as a new wave of winemakers arrives on the windswept dunes of the West Coast, eager to establish their presence in this distinctive winemaking region. At the forefront of this emerging generation is Gavin Brand, the visionary winemaker behind Cape rock Wines. His commitment to excellence and innovative approach to viticulture have positioned him as a leader among those seeking to redefine the local wine landscape.
No discussion of West Coast craftsmanship would be complete without mentioning Joubert Roux, the esteemed distiller behind 1st Principles Distillers. A true icon of the region, Roux has garnered a reputation for his mastery of spirits, ensuring that no wine-tasting experience is truly complete without culminating in a gin tasting at his meticulously crafted home distillery. Ingeniously engineered to operate almost entirely on solar power, his setup is a testament to both his resourcefulness and dedication to sustainable production methods, reinforcing his status as a pioneer in the field.
So, Pack some sandwiches, and don’t forget a frikkadel or two, then hit the road for a old-school road trip up north. With 300 kilometers of open highway ahead, you’ll have plenty of time to soak in the rugged beauty of the journey on your way to experience some truly remarkable wines. After all, the locals might just be right, the West Coast is the best coast.
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