In the sideboard of my grandparents’ dining room, nestled within the old farmhouse just outside Leeudoringstad, stood two bottles: one of brandy, reserved for a “brandy and coke” when neighbours came over for a braai or when the boxing aired on the radio, and one of Port, traditionally poured as a Sunday evening nightcap. That modest blackwood, claw-footed cabinet, situated hundreds of kilometres from the nearest vineyard, represented their only exposure to the wine industry and yet even here fortified wine had a home.
Yet today, as I stood in a classroom in the heart of Stellenbosch and posed a simple question, “How many of you have ever tasted fortified wines?”, only a few hesitant hands were raised. By my count, fewer than half the class had ever experienced them.
It was a moment that underscored a paradox. Despite being surrounded by vineyards, cellars, and a thriving wine culture, the legacy and appreciation of fortified wines, once a staple in many South African homes, seems to be fading.
Today, this tradition of the nightcap faces the risk of fading into obscurity. Fortified wines, which were once regarded as a distinguished conclusion to the evening, have experienced a decline in popularity and are now infrequently consumed.
Over the past two decades, there has been a significant global decline in the consumption of fortified wines. From the historic dockyards of Porto to the distinguished Sherry houses of Jerez de la Frontera in Spain, fortified wines have experienced the most pronounced decrease among all wine styles in today’s evolving market.
South Africa’s own story mirrors this declining global trend, except with its own local drama. In 2008 there were 119 Port wines on the South African market by 2025 it is down to 97. This is not just a consolidation of brands that are happening, production peaked in 1989 at a proud 50,149,800 litres, an era when fortified wines were a staple on winery lists and retail shelves alike.
By 2024, output had fallen to 29,776,036 litres, nearly a 40 percent decline from that golden years. Exports tell an even more startling story. In 1994, South African fortified wines crossed oceans to the tune of 1,284,187 litres. Three decades later, that figure dwindled to 230,195 litres in 2024, leaving domestic producers to court local drinkers in a market where fortified wine’s share was once 2.3 percent in 2001 but has since slid to 1.6 percent in 2024. These numbers read like an elegy for an industry that was once woven tightly into South African wine identity.
Because of South Africa’s location far from its major trading partners, in the days before refrigeration and steam ships, fortification of our wines was one of the only surefire ways to ensure that your wine still arrives in good nick in Europe. In fact, there is still some debate around whether the famous Constantia sweet wines were fortified or not.
These days the Calitzdorp producers have dug in to form the bastion of fortified wines in South Africa, with De Krans and Boplaas becoming world famous for their fortified port styled wines (the reason why it cannot be called Port is a story all onto its own, let’s just say being a small African country trying to negotiate international trade deals is closer to being involved in a mob shakedown rather then a negotiation amongst equals).
While Calitzdorp has firmly established itself as the heartland of South African fortified wine, it is by no means the only region keeping this tradition alive. Across the country, passionate producers continue to craft exceptional fortified wines, Breedekloof and the Orange River Cellars remain steadfast in their commitment especially in the production of Muscadel, while even some of Stellenbosch’s more traditional estates, such as Delaire Graff, have proven that elegance and intensity can still be found in this time-honoured style of fortified wines.
Yet the decline of fortified wine is not the result of a single antagonist. It’s a confluence of shifting consumer preferences and market forces. Younger drinkers increasingly gravitate toward crisp whites, rosés, cool-climate reds, and an ever-expanding array of sparkling wines. Marketing budgets follow suit, chasing trends that photograph well and sell fast, canned cocktails, low-alcohol spritzers, and natural wines dominate the spotlight, while fortified wines, steeped in centuries of lore, struggle to capture attention in a fast-paced, image-driven world.
Compounding the challenge are rising production costs, particularly for Cape-style fortified (Port). These wines demand time, patience, and capital, Cape Tawny a personal favourite, for instance, requires a minimum of seven years of aging, a cost commitment that increasingly places it beyond the reach of everyday consumers. As a result, even some of the country’s most dedicated producers have begun to abandon these styles, not out of lack of passion, but out of economic necessity. The future of South African fortified wine may depend not only on preserving tradition but on reimagining it for a new generation.
One path in making port and other fortified wines more enjoyable and accessible is through cocktails and mixers that highlight its versatility and charm and has shown renewed interest the last couple of years. So, I leave you with a few inspirations to help get the fortified wine flowing again this summer:
Port & Tonic: A crisp, effervescent blend of white port and tonic water over ice, garnished with citrus or mint. It’s the perfect aperitif for warm evenings.
Port Sour: Ruby port shaken with lemon juice, simple syrup, and a dash of bitters. A silky, tangy alternative to the traditional whiskey sour.
Port Sangria: Ruby port mixed with seasonal fruits, orange liqueur, and soda water. A crowd-pleaser that turns any braai into a celebration.
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