There’s a quiet but compelling revival underway in the wine industry of the Netherlands, a revival that may surprise many, especially those who don’t typically associate the Dutch with viticulture. But for South Africans, the Dutch legacy in wine is far from unfamiliar. In fact, the very foundations of South African winemaking were laid by Dutch hands.
It was in 1659, almost three decades before the first French Huguenots arrived at the Cape, that the Dutch initiated wine production in South Africa. Under the guidance of the Heeren XVII of the Dutch East India Company (VOC), vine cultivation began in earnest at the Cape. Later, recognizing the need to bolster the fledgling industry, the VOC invited French settlers (Huguenots), particularly those from the Dauphiné and Languedoc regions, whose deep oenological knowledge became the bedrock of wine-making excellence in the colony. By the turn of the 18th century, the Cape was exporting nearly 1,000 leggers (approximately 270,000 liters) annually, a remarkable feat for a young wine region.
Fast forward to today, and the bond between South African wine and the Netherlands remains strong. South Africa exports an average of 13.5 million liters of wine to the Netherlands each year, accounting for just under 5% of South Africa’s total wine production. From the Dutch perspective, these imports represent roughly 3.1% of all wine consumed domestically, a testament to the enduring relationship between the two countries.
But what’s particularly intriguing now is what’s happening within the Netherlands itself. In the southern provinces, regions long overlooked in international viticulture circles, the Dutch are reawakening their wine-making ambitions. No longer content with simply being a nation of wine importers, they are rediscovering and reimagining their historical traditions. Experimental vineyards, boutique producers, and micro-climates are slowly reshaping perceptions and rekindling an industry once thought dormant.
Viticulture was documented in Maastricht as early as 928 AD in the Netherlands, with evidence also indicating that wine consumption in this region occurred during the Roman period. In the Middle Ages, Maastricht in the south served as a hub for both winemaking and consumption in the area. The city maintained connections with other European wine centers through religious communities in Belgium, France, and Germany.
The decline of viticulture in Maastricht and the Netherlands may be attributed to several factors, including climate cooling between 1540 and 1590, shifting consumer preferences towards beer following the introduction of hops, increased quality and profitability of imported wines via Dutch trade, and policies such as Napoleon’s excise duties on Limburg wine.
In the Renaissance the Netherlands became a dominant force in the wine and spirits trade. Dutch expertise in distillation and global shipping helped establish fortified wines like Port, Madeira, and Sherry. They do not call Gin Dutch courage for nothing. Rotterdam emerged as a major wine hub, with its import networks and expertise influencing the wine industry in Europe and colonies like the Cape, as trade flowed both to and from Europe.
Although viticulture persisted in in a small part in the Netherlands, the last vineyard in Huy closed in 1946, marking the end of a long, gradual decline.
Modern viticulture began in 1963 when Jean Bellefroid planted a vineyard in Borgloon across the border in Belgium, inspired by techniques he learned in Germany during World War II. He mentored Frits Bosch, who started his own vineyard in Limburg in 1967. Dutch viticulture took a much more hobbyist approach for much of the rest of the 20th century with only a few commercial vineyards being founded in this time. Some of the first commercial pioneers that have formed the cornerstone of this revival are farms such as, Apostelhoeve, Wittemer, Backerbosch, Hoeve Nekum and St. Martinus Vineyard, that are still flourishing today
In the early 2000s, new grape varieties such as Regent and Solaris enabled successful vine cultivation in the high latitudes of The Netherlands due to their early ripening. By 2006, there were 183 vineyards, both commercial and hobbyist, across the country, with most located in the South.
It is noteworthy that, as of 2006, 47% of vineyards in the Netherlands comprised plots smaller than 0.2 hectares, while only 13.7% exceeded 2 hectares.
By 2023, a total of 302 hectares were harvested, with wine production dominated by white varieties (76%), followed by red wines (24%), and sparkling wines accounting for nearly 14%.
Though these figures may seem modest, they represent a tenfold increase over the past decade, a remarkable feat, especially in a global context where most major wine-producing countries are facing declines in both vineyard acreage and alcohol consumption. The Netherlands also not only hosts its own national wine competition but is also earning gold medals at international events. At a time when many wine industries are contracting, the Dutch wine sector is experiencing a quiet but impressive renaissance.
The cultural ties between the Netherlands and South Africa have long been stronger than those between South Africa and the UK. This affinity is evident in the Dutch perception of South African wines, which are valued for their quality rather than viewed merely as inexpensive “entry-level” offerings, as observed by René van Hoven, a Dutch wine judge with extensive experience in the South African industry.
In 2024, the Netherlands outperformed other key markets in export value, with South African wine commanding an average price of R60 per liter, compared with R31 per liter in the UK and R20 per liter in Germany. Targeted marketing of Pinotage (1.7% of total sales) and Chenin Blanc (5.8% of total sales) has further elevated returns, achieving average packaged-wine prices of R98 per liter and R81 per liter, respectively.
What began centuries ago as a colonial seed planted in the Cape is now germinating anew in the old homeland. The rise of Dutch wine isn’t just symbolic, it’s a full-circle moment, blending heritage with innovation, and suggesting that the Netherlands may soon have more to offer than tulips, cheese, and stroopwafels. As this movement gathers momentum, it might be time to revise how we think of the Dutch on the global wine map, not just as historic enablers, but as modern-day producers in their own right.
So when you next visit expat friends or family in the Netherlands, exchange a bottle of Stellenbosch Pinotage or Swartland Chenin Blanc for an Auxerrois from Limburg or a Rivaner from Zeeland. In doing so, you’ll broaden your horizons and just maybe discover a hidden gem known to few.
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