Canned wine is often spoken about as if it were a brand‑new invention, a quirky indulgence for pastel‑clad millennials at garden parties. Yet the reality is far more complex. What we are witnessing today is not the birth of a fad but the latest chapter in a long, uneven history of wine in cans. The numbers tell part of the story: canned wine has grown from a negligible 0.2% of the South African wine industry to just above 1%. That represents an astonishing 826% year‑on‑year growth. Still, it remains a small player compared to boxed wine, which accounts for half of packaged wine sales in South Africa. The contrast is striking, cans are growing fast, but they are still dwarfed by the dominance of bag‑in‑box.
The reason canned wine has ebbed and flowed over the decades lies in the technical challenges of packaging. Winemakers are accustomed to glass bottles, which are heavy and fragile but chemically stable. Bottling wine is straightforward: fill, add sulfur dioxide, seal, and store. Cans, however, are another beast entirely. Their wide openings mean that filling introduces more oxygen, forcing winemakers to add higher levels of sulfur dioxide to protect the wine. It requires highly specialized filling machines that operate in a completely inert environment. This is difficult in a market increasingly demanding lower sulfur levels. Then there is the lining inside the can. Few consumers realize that cans are not bare aluminum, they are coated with a thin polymer resin. This lining is essential because wine, with its low pH, would otherwise corrode the metal. But the lining itself is vulnerable. Copper and iron contamination, often trace elements from vineyard sprays or winery equipment, act as catalysts not only for oxidation but also for the degradation of the lining. The result is that shelf life becomes the greatest challenge. Most canned wines must be consumed within a year before oxidation sets in. For many winemakers, the nerves required to trust their product to a can are considerable and something I have realized I personally do not have the stomach for.
None of this is new however. Concerns about glass bottles have existed for centuries. They are heavy, fragile, and expensive to transport. Cans, by contrast, are light and durable. Unsurprisingly, the first experiments with canned wine were driven not by hipster marketing but by military necessity. There are mentions of French military trials in 1917, when the army sought to supply soldiers with their daily ration of half a liter of wine. Wine was integral to morale, but the experiments failed. The acidity of wine corroded the cans, and the product spoiled. Wine retreated back into bottles and barrels.
The next serious attempt came in the 1930s in California. The vast distances of the United States made efficient packaging attractive, and for the first time canned wine was offered commercially. To compensate for the short shelf life, producers focused on fortified wines such as Port, Sherry, and Muscadel. These wines were more stable, but the corrosion problem persisted. Then came the Second World War, and with it a global demand for metal in the war industries. Canned wine was shelved once again.
It was not until the early 1980s that canned wine resurfaced, this time driven by airlines. The low weight and durability of cans made them ideal for air travel. By then, advances in polymer linings had solved many of the corrosion issues. Technically, the wines could be safely packaged in cans. But marketing was another matter. The image of air travel in that era was one of glamour and luxury. Passengers paying for first‑class tickets expected their French champagne in a flute, not a can and the innovation fizzled out.
That brings us to the modern era, the fourth revival of canned wine. Over the past decade, canned wine has not only survived but thrived. Premium brands now embrace it, and consumers are increasingly receptive. The reasons are clear. Sustainability is a major driver, cans are lighter, easier to transport, and more recyclable than glass. Smaller serving sizes also appeal to health‑conscious drinkers who want moderation without waste. The casual, outdoor lifestyle of contemporary consumers, picnics, festivals, and poolside gatherings, fits perfectly with the convenience of cans. What once seemed gimmicky now feels practical, even progressive. Its share of the market may still be small, but its growth trajectory is undeniable, canned wine has traveled a long road and this time, it looks set to stay.
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